JOGJAKARTA

In a mad rush to make it to Jogja to get my passport extended for the 3rd time i said goodbyes to Freea, Mill and Semu and caught an ojek to Ubung station in central Bali, the bus trip was about 20 hours from there to the city of Art, graffiti, buskers and music. The trip was long, and broken up with a stop off for a free feed at a large food hall in which i took my time, too much time, and was almost left behind by the bus, i jumped on drenched from the heavy rain and was greeted with abusive shouting from the fellow impatient bus 'buddies' in Javanese, with me wanting to yell back "i cant understand you, so it doesn't offend me!" but instead curling in a ball and falling asleep, yes it still offends even if you don't know what they are saying (maybe even more so?)

I had met a lovely, crazy Italian traveller named Marzia and we decided to share accommodation in Pariwotaman a street in the southern area of Jogja, on first impression i was highly let down by this city. Acknowledging disappointment and angry at myself for having expectations for the first time on this trip. The first few days were spent tripping back and fourth from the immigration office getting my visa extension sorted. An interesting day running around trying to find a 'sponsor' for my stay, ending up with a Becak (bike cart) driver agreeing to help, with of course a little payment, his name was Superman, yes Superman like the superhero! It was dodgy and i was worried that it was a fake ID, but it worked and i was granted another month here. 

After a lot of walking around the city, i began to grow fond of this place, its decrepit, muddled, graffiti covered streets. The buskers, everywhere. The poverty, the haggle and hassle. 

In the centre of this city, there lies the sultans palace "Kraton" an area in which many people live tax free, sort of like a castle, winding alleys and streets, caging within a bird market (that no longer sells birds) a water castle (that no longer has water in it) and a night market, an intimidating place filled with chinese bric a brac, food vendors, cheap carnival rides and 1000s of people walking around in circles chasing their tails.

Jogja is renowned for its art scene, and i had this romanticised idea in my head that on arrival i would fall strait into it. That did not happen and hence the slight disappointment, however, i did see some great art and performance whilst there. Going to a gig at the LAF gallery called "DJ Urine" an experimental performance musician who burnt ones ears with record scratching tunes, and a couple cool nights at Asmara art and coffee shop hearing some blues music.

Meeting up with a local friend of a friend named EDO after Marzias departure, we cruised around the city going to art exhibitions in the evenings, the chinese dragon festival on Malioboro street, and to the inexpensive version of Prambanan temple. 

A suprising day began with a long morning of waiting, for something to happen at the Kraton. We spent 4 hours in the sun drinking copious amounts of tea in a crowd of hundreds, sweating getting sunburnt and waiting. I really didnt know what we were waiting for, Edo spoke little english so sometimes things got confusing. But when giant sculptures made of food came out into the crowd minutes later an intense food fight broke out, this was to celebrate Grebeg festival, and it is said that if you can get a piece of one of the sculpture wether it be food or bamboo or string, it will give you good luck. i ended up with a chunk of rice on my forehead, so eating that i hoped it would bring something good... as it tasted like sour mushy peas. 

In the 10 days spent here, i also did a bit of sight seeing around the area. Going to Borobudur temple, which was amazing! Beautiful mountainous areas surrounding this well kept temple, leaning in to touch the Buddahs head for good luck, and wandering around each level slowly in the weeping rain.

A day spent trying to get to Merapi with public transport after being told not to... 4 different busses, beginning with the air conditioned tranz jogja bus, 2 other mid range busses and reaching Merapi 4 hours later in a rusted to the skeleton mini van with a complete nutter mid 20 year old lady sitting next to me singing muslim prayer songs in my ear this hour long leg. But it was worth it, the 2 hour climb to the top of a near mountain and incredible view of this volcano was awesome, in the true meaning of the word. Observing the lava flows, fallen trees and village sitting on the shoulder of the crater were relaxing and thought provoking. It was good to spend a few hours in nature by myself.

This is where i had the realisation, that i really wasnt enjoying being in a city, i wanted to see more nature, and i decided that i would do some more research on Sumatra! and possibly head there in the next week.

Becak

Some sexy Junk i was checking out one morning.

Tasty eats at the markets

Borobudur

Prambanan back street temple

Inside the temples

Merapi, caught in a long stare, i only fathomed a photo once the clouds had moved in, goose!

Green ground turns to grey

the shadows loom close

as the clouds hover in with motivation

but no direction

after the heat

the rain falls heavy

a wet open book

is left lying in a field

full of thoughts

someones words

whose mouth is now stuck shut

whose lessons are lost

blotted ink on a page

content in just being

but awaiting the next mornings sun

and someone to find it

Dragon Festival, Jalan Malioboro

Kraton 'Grebeg' celebration festival. FOODFIGHT!

Bed bugs, Burglary, Broken things, Bali

The plan was to have no plans, and yes this indeed led me to change my somewhat planned plans. 

I had the idea sliding around my head of going to Sulawaysi and Kalimantan, two islands I am very interested in travelling, but as it came to be, they will have to wait for another adventure.  As id been warned, boats between islands can be rare and un often, and visas a bitch!

So after Lombok I caught a ferry to Bali with friend Maria. The trip was a short four hours, just long enough though for me to fall asleep in the sun and enter Bali beetroot red faced. Friends Jonas, Nina and Guna were waiting for us in Sanur, we met early evening and caught up for a beer and went to a delicious night market and amazing art exhibition by I Made a friend of Jonas. 

Sanur was a bit of a shock! Overweight older generation whiteys everywhere, and many shops aimed at western tourists selling ‘exotic’ things. We found the cheapest accommodation with rooms available and felt content in this back alley home stay with a robotic voiced owner, she was sweet. It was nice and she was sweet until the restless, itchy, no sleep, toss turn night that followed. BED BUGS bloody bed bugs, they were huge! They were everywhere, where the hell do they hide? They just kept on appearing and there was no way out of this situation other than to go and sleep in the air-conditioned fancy room next door, so at 4am Maria and I moved our gear and had an itch haunted rest till mid mornin’ its ok we didn’t have to pay extra, and robot lady was quite understanding.

This morning was meant to be a parting of paths, Nina and Guna were going back to Singapore but they missed their plane, twice. I think they just wanted to hang out with me more.

I had made my way to Kuta, to meet the beautiful Freea Fontanella from Coffs Hubbar. Due to flights missed we had a great last night with the gang, all heading to Seminyak to see a friend Rizal play with his World Music band. And then into the depths of Aussie bogan hell - Kuta (yes there actually were young sunburnt teens running down the street yelling “aussie aussie aussie oi oi oi”) heading  to Apache Bar, a reggae bar to have a head nod, bottom wiggle with the local rasta ‘cowboys’. This place was actually fun. Decked out with ridiculous Bob Marley paraphernalia and green, red, yellow everything. Then my wallet was stolen, dang! Id become so used to not being in citys that when I was in one it didn’t even occur to me to be super overprotective with my bag. I don’t know how they did it, but they did it good, and they can have the $5 that was In there!

Freea, her sister Mill, Samu and I then moved on to Ubud, to have a couple relaxing days. Ubud is a pretty hilarious place, full of spiritual junkies, drive through natural health solutions and eat pray love wannabies. Saying that, we did eat some delicious food and I really liked the chilled out vibe. Lots of colour everywhere, and many Hindu festivals and celebrations going on in the streets daily, great to see all the locals in their traditional get up with these crazy bright gigantic offerings on their shoulders.

It was a good place to have a technological break down in. Somehow, within 24 hours… my pnone died, my hardrive swiped of all contents, my hotmail and facebook account blocked. It sounds really small and insignificant now, but at the time along with my wallet and cash card being stolen it was a bit stressful and I was in a shit of a mood! So I wandered the streets and found a little art gallery shop, became friends with the guys working there and settled in for a good 6 hours of painting with them. 

Creativity cures all.

My time in Ubud involved a lot of running around and getting stuff sorted out, no time for massages or yoga classes, but good catch ups with Freea, some bicycle riding and a trip to the monkey forest where Samu and I watched silly tourists get bitten by monkeys. I enjoyably discovered that if you leave the main streets here filled with typical Balinese paintings, you can find some real creative creatures, a sweet community of artists with good energy.

The crazy boys at asu art attack

Like a rusty peach painted wall
peeling back to reveal its moulded white past
i want to return
Like a grey stem folding over
sprouting a green finger nail
i want to be patient
Like a leaning bamboo weaved home
patched with weathered iron
i want to compromise
I never forget to hope
but i often wish i could
Its the darkest dampest places
that bloom the most luminous green moss
The thick burning days
that in return gift rain
So i will stay

Wet feet and lombok lunacy

Last evening in laubanbadjo flores and farewelled with yet another beautiful sunset, what an island!
Emily and I Joined many other tourists and travellers on a voyage to Lombok, the slow way, catching a parama tour boat stopping off at reefs for a snorkel and miander around, a sewaty trudge through Rincha island to see the wild Komodo Dragons in their natural habitat and a beautiful swim at a waterfall in Sumbawa. Sleeping on the deck under the stars at night and having great conversations with many people on board including em and my new friends (canadian family) Kevin and Jamie!
After arriving in Mataram Lombok and a few days extending my visa, and feasting on the tastiest Soto Ayam-jakarta style we moved on to Sengigi planning to head to Gili for new years. Eating at one of the many available Warungs in town, who should walk in but Andrea a good friend from Timor Leste! Crash tackle hugs and shock out of the way it became apparent that a big crew form Timor too were heading to the Gilis for new years. Catching the local boat to Gili Air and settling in at our bungalow, the next week here was pure bliss and i felt like i was cheating travelling. New Years was a blast, Air is renowned for its Tranz parties and yes they were planning a big one for this night. Dressing up for the first time in a while and having a good shake of my tail feather till sunrise, with new friends, Timor family, and many locals (who have got the doof stomp down!) it was a fun night blessed with a beautiful sunrise, laying at the beach mind ticking over with the strange realisation that its now 2012, the pondering of what this year will hold for me, where im going, what i will do, and  tossing about the concept of worldly change as we know it..... industrial collapse? we all can hope:)

Mount Rinjani, Lombok.

Travelling the seas and discovering my love for flying fish, what a magical creature!

 

 Pristine waterfalls in Sumbawa.

After meeting a wicked sista in Gili called Iva, i headed to sengigi in Lombok to stay at an art gallery of her friend Jonas. This gallery was located on the stretch of road to the beach, a big space with lots of air, a refreshing and comfortable vibe, and i ended up staying here for about 10 days, was planning to stay 2:)
Unknown art space was an interesting place to stay. Jonas the wise artist from Malang Java, always scribbling on a piece of paper and taking us on random unknown adventures. Diart and Gallang, two crazy boys that help look after the joint, always ready to make you a coffee, take you for a cruise on the back of the moto, or for a wild dance at the discotheque, and Cimbi a beautifully charismatic, quiet yet outspoken woman that floats around and offers interesting thought. Without knowing I developed a bit of routine here, spent my days here waking up earlyish for a swim at the beach and a coffee with two local temporary tattoo beach artists, making jewellery and having funny english lessons, awaiting the inevitable rain to set in around lunch time, head back to the gallery and chill out drawing, resting and drinking an array of local alcoholic beverages, tua, arak, pink lady broooom. And then the evening would somehow bring an adventure.

Mmmmmmmm mangostean, a little piece of heaven.

Gallang with the guitar, always ready to play you a special song.

THE EVENINGS

Mataram was one place set for adventures, for fresh fruit and vegetables at the market, or to visit the Taman Budaya (culture centre) one such evening we were set on going to an art opening here and travelled the hour journey on moto in the pouring rain. This was hilarious, wet and yes a little stupid, arriving lombok style soaked to the bone with buckets of water boots, leaving a trail as we observed the art. It was a great exhibition, and the artist community here are so warm and welcoming. Playing guitar, drinking, drawing and chatting till the early hours on a couple of occasions.
On another occasion we headed here for an art performance by a group from Surabaya. It was a very interesting experience, a physical theatre performance that gave me goosebumps remembering the days of drama classes at school. The Show was an adaption of "one flew over the cuckoos nest" by Ken Kesey. Analysing the character American Indian chief Bromden in this film. His place in society, his loss of land, loss of culture, and his strength of character. Anyway i don't know if this is very interesting for you to read, but the performance was interesting, it was done well in that it related globally to all indigenous peoples and the constant fight and struggle to maintain culture and tradition in the western world.

GUNA aka. mc purple socks

NINA chantik

Beautiful sunset out of Mataram

Jonas doing one of the many things he does well.

Guna and Nina a MAD couple from Singapore came to Sengigi also connected through a mutual friend of jonas, and we hit it off immediately, sometimes in life you spend 24 hours with a person and it feels like you known them for years, well this is how my friendship with these two blossomed. We decided to leave Sengigi and head to Kuta Lombok for some time at the beach. This place has become quite touristy, but it still maintains quite a sweet chilled beachy atmosphere.
After meeting a new friend Maria a flower of a being, we hired motorbikes and i was ready to finally learn how to ride! well it was only an automatic, but its a start, and now im hooked, i think ive been bitten by the motorbike bug! What a way to adventure around, wind in hair, stopping where you want when you want, and the feeling is just great! We went to a village about 40 minutes east of Kuta to visit a surf school where one of Ninas friends worked. This place was unreal, they teach young boys and girls how to surf, so that they can be surf instructors when they are older, there is also a deep skate bowel on the tip of the beach, and the kids skate with no shoes!

Kids from the surf school in the background, the swell was teeny but they wanted to show us their moves.

This beach near Kuta Lombok had such beautiful rounded sand.

Kuta beach Lombok

 

 This is me killing it! the second day on a motorbike, i am pretty proud of my achievement, such an unpredictable wet, more pot hole than road journey, and although returning home with mud covered feet and bike, no falls were had and i can safely say i am ready to drive on any 'road' in Indonesia!

  

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Travels to the land of flowers

I waved goodbyes to some special friends early morning in busy Dili and was off on a 12 hour bus trip to Kupung, West Timor. Tears were uncontrollably released as we drove off, feeling vulnerable to separation anxiety, I found compassion and care sitting next to me, receiving a pat on the back and an offering of chocolate by a nun, oh the kindness of strangers. I felt sad but content and i was ready for the next adventure. It really was like starting again, leaving home again.
The trip was long, but interesting, the differences between East Timor and West Timor were brutally apparent... good roads, tin roofs, clean streets, healthier looking people, big housing, more industry.
Arriving in Kupung quite late i was dropped off to the first hotel we passed and slept an awfully lonely night, in foetal position. waaaa....

The next evening after an aimless 12 hour wander around dirty Kupung, i hopped a Pelni boat to Ende, Flores Island. These boats are massive and there were A LOT of people on board, i found myself a good spot with a few women around me and settled for the 24 hour trip ahead. A few hours off Flores i was greeted by one of the most spectacular sunsets i have seen in a long time, 180 degree view from the back of the boat, complimented by Muslim call to prayer music in background, dolphins playing in distance, sky of electric purple, yellow, orange, and a darker city of clouds lining the horizon. I was lost in this view until reality became evident in the form of a boat worker emptying the days trash into the ocean from the back of the boat, i watched as the plastics trickled off into oblivion.

Ende was an uneventful city for me and after a few days it was time to move on, i had met two other solo travellers David and Andrew and we decided to team up on a north bound expedition. The roads in Flores are c c c crazyyy! winding mountains, blind corners, sheer drops, fallen trees, and the usual dog, pig, cow, chicken obstacle.
The bus trips were entertaining as always, loud blasting pop music with too much bass and treble, a non optional game of corners lasting a few hours where ones face gets squashed against windscreen and also the odd person with car sickness puking in a bag in front of you. As disgusting and uncomfortable as this sounds, i actually really enjoy these trips.

Our first destination was the sweet little town of Moni, this place is picturesque, nestled between mountains, rivers, dense forest and delicious hot springs that we bathed in till we became 3 ghostly wrinkly raisins.
We hired some motos and prayed for the rain to stop, "i can see clearly now the rain has gone" popped on the sound system and yes the next morning was clear as we ventured up before sunrise toward Kelimutu National Park. We were greeted by a brilliant orange pink skyline with trickles of silver, and clouds folding over distant mountains like waterfalls. It was a very beautiful special morning. This volcano has 3 lakes of ranging colour that have changed without explanation throughout time. Now they are turquoise, green and black glass. But in the past they have been a rusty red and thick white.

 

Natural Changes, eternal beliefs. Its believed that spirits come to Kelimutu when people die. The Mae (spirit) would leave its village and remain in Kelimutu forever. Before entering one of the lakes the spirit would firt meet Konde Ratu, the guard of the gate Perekonde. Which lake the spirit would enter depends on the age and charachter when alive.

Over the next week we travelled around North Flores visiting untouched beaches and traditional villages. We ate like kings in Maumere where we found an amazing Warung called 'Ruma Makan Ikan Bakar' best sursak juice (custard apple) and breakfasts at the local market were amazing and entertaining, the locals looked at us with bamboozled expressions as we ate papaya with lime and hard coconut shell.

My friend 'togetha' aka Emily Hellyeah that i met in Lospalos was also venturing around Indonesia and we decided to meet up for Chrissy, New Years. She came back to Flores (she is basically a local now) and we ventured back to Moni to visit some of her friends.... and we partied. Festa Festa Festa! We were invited to a 1 year olds birthday party, but this aint no usual 1st birthday this was an all out, dance and drink fest. 100s of photos of Em and i with the family and much bottom wiggling in the mud to crazy tranz like dance hall raggae tunes. With a hangover we headed to Ende, the boys followed us without our knowledge and persuaded us to go to another Festa the following night, this was a graduation party and yes, it got pretty out of control too.
We left early bound West and after many coffee stops with friends we made it to Bajawa. We had a beautiful night resting under a natural hot spring waterfall. Bajawa is a beautiful town surrounded my 7 Volcanoes and innumerable  Eucalyptus plantations.

Em and I then left for Laubanbadjo planning to ferry it across to Lombok for Christmas. We got stuck in this city as there are protests in Bima, Sumbawa. All ferries and busses were stopped. The protests are against an Australian Gold mine, for the peoples land rights.There is not much about it in the papers or on  the news here, and a lot of people i talk to dont even know its going on. Protesters have been killed and many injured by the Indonesan police and their brutal nature of enforcement.

Laubanbadjo was great though, we met quite a few locals and had great nights playing music and cruising around the city. Ate an amazing lunch at a fancy restaurant for Christmas, and then decided to catch a tourist boat to Lombok. For anyone thinking of heading to Indonesia, i think that Flores should be at the top of your list! The people here really reminded me of the giving , compassionate, loving people of Timor Leste, and the nature is just completely wild and indescribable!